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Port Edgar

The History of Port Edgar

Introduction Page

Butlaw Holiday Camp

1/2/2020

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Picture
Butlaw Naval Hospital. Image: Queensferry History Group Archives

Butlaw is known mostly as being the Naval Hospital during the war years, although its beginnings date from 1889. To read more about the history of the beginnings of Butlaw, read our archives here.

It is not common knowledge that Queensferry had a Holiday Camp at Butlaw from 1933 until 1939. 
There are many reports in local newspapers in the 1930’s regarding the use of Butlaw between the wars.
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Butlaw Camp. Image: Queensferry History Group. The attached text states - "In the early 1930’s some of the Nissan Huts on the Royal Naval Hospital site at Butlaw were temporarily acquired from the Admiralty by Councillor Andrew Murray, Chairman of Leith Market Hall Unemployed Club, for conversion into a holiday camp for families of the unemployed. For two weeks in the summer, these families, coming mostly from the West of Scotland, participated in a range of recreational and social activities, even planting vegetables and rearing poultry. In 1933 the former Voluntary Aid Detachment building Upper Butlaw was also pressed into service, on this occasion by a Glasgow charity, to provide similar holidays for schoolgirls. However, all of this ceased in 1939 when Post Edgar naval base was reopened during the Second World War and the site was once again required by the Admiralty. At that time and until eventual closure of the base in 1975, the buildings at Butlaw were used solely for training purposes". The following newspaper reports indicate the girls from the Glasgow charity were using the site first.

In June 1933 part of the Naval Hospital at Butlaw was leased for 7 years, by the Necessitous Children’s Holiday Camp Fund. The Glasgow Necessitous Children’s Holiday Camp Fund was set up in the 1920s to give two-week summer breaks, named the “Fresh Air Fortnight”, to those who needed them most.
The scheme, set up by the then Glasgow Corporation, was massively over subscribed. In 1934, records show there were 67,000 children in Glasgow from families too poor to afford a holiday. 
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Gorbals 1911. Image : https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Main_street_gorbals_ Attrubution - robert kelly / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)
July 1933, the West Lothian Courier  reported that the first 200 Glasgow schoolgirls had arrived at the V.A.D. (Voluntary Aid Detachment who assisted the nurses) quarters at Butlaw Hospital, where they would spend a fortnights holiday in ideal surroundings. Each fortnight of the holidays would see another 250 girls arrive.
A more detailed report followed in August in the Linlithgowshire Gazette. “Nearly 250 happy little girls, whose ages range from 9 to 14 years are spending a fortnights holiday on the shores of the Firth of Forth at Butlaw Hospital, South Queensferry. They have been taken there by the Necessitous Children’s Holiday Camp Fund which annually provides a holiday in the country for hundreds of working class children whose parents could not otherwise send them for a holiday. This is the first year that the children have been taken to South Queensferry to live during the summer at Butlaw Hospital erected during the war but never occupied and now leased for seven years by the fund with grounds which are used as a camp for young girls. The camp has a staff of 12 women helpers, some of whom are teachers in Glasgow and others typists on holiday all under the charge of Mrs M. B. Smith.”

A further report said “In the health giving fresh air and sunshine, the little waifs from the tall tenements and dreary closes are strengthened mentally and physically for the long winter at school. A special train delivered the children to South Queensferry, many of the girls experiencing the “joy of travel” for the first time.
 “No matter how sickly they look when they first come from the torrid city streets, their wan cheeks fill out gradually and become rose with the blooms of health,” the newspaper added.
Their usual “scant” meals of bread, margarine and the “occasional fish supper” were replaced with four full servings a day with plenty fruit and vegetables.It was not unknown for girls to gain six or seven pounds in weight during the fortnight.”


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Children paddling in the sea in the 1930's. source: Creative Commons, https://www.ukphotoarchive.org.uk/photos-of-children-in-the-1930s/hD04A09D4#hd04a09d4
Also in September 1933, a 7 year lease of the Admiralty building and huts at Butlaw, which provided accommodation for 400 or 500, was granted to the Leith Market Hall Social Centre for Unemployed Lads, between the ages of 16 and 21. This would provide a period of holiday for each of the lads. It was hoped that while they were in residence they would be as self supporting as possible, growing their own vegetables, rearing poultry and carrying out maintenance work. It was confidently expected that the scheme would be of distinct advantage and uplift to all who were privileged to come into contact with it. For the lad’s benefit and amusement during the winter months, a radio and a billiard table were provided. Captain Evans was in charge as clubmaster.
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Image: By HostellingScotland - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=67489027
In April 1935 the Gazette then reported that “the Youth Hostels Movement opened a new building at Butlaw, a corrugated iron building which they redecorated, and provides a fine commodious hostel for 30 members. The new hostel stands in a fine situation amongst the other buildings of the Butlaw Camp for juvenile organizations”.
​
In June 1936, the Gazette reported that “Butlaw Camp, South Queensferry, a Summer holiday centre for unemployed people and members of youth movements, was embarking on what promises to be its busiest season. Over 1100 people were accommodated there during the past week-end. This party was made up of unemployed men from one of the special areas and their dependants, hikers, schoolboys, cycling clubs and picnic parties. The camp, which was opened for the season, in May has had no fewer than 500 residents at any time since and the bookings show this will be comfortably maintained until the season closes in September.
A paddling pool, mountain slide, see-saw and other amusements provide ample enjoyment for the children. The juveniles hold a farewell party each week before returning home.  A concert party from Edinburgh gives an entertainment in the spacious hall every Tuesday evening. On Wednesdays and Fridays the adult members hold dances when the children have retired for the night. 
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Image: Engraving of the original George Watson's Hospital C1950. Author unknown. Wikipedia Public Domain
​Boys from the various Edinburgh Schools were generally to be found at Butlaw. The Watsonians held a leading place in this respect. Daniel Stewarts College, Holy Cross Academy and St Anthony’s School, Leith also send large quotas.”
​
In April 1939, alt
hough World War II had not yet begun, the groundwork for the Holocaust was already being laid in Germany, where Jewish people faced harassment, discrimination and political persecution. 
the Evening News reported that "66 Jewish Czechoslovakian refugees had arrived at the spacious Holiday Camp at Butlaw and were expected to be there for several months". 
They integrated well and friendships were built with the local community who helped where needed, entertained and even issued invites to tea. A few of them, who went on to Canada, kept in touch with the families who befriended them in Queensferry.
Also in April, a total of 21 children, aged up to 17 years, came to Queensferry from Czechoslovakia, on route to Canada, perhaps via the "Scottish Children’s Council for Refugees", Edinburgh. The children were given accommodation at Butlaw and they enrolled into Queensferry School. 
As an expression of their gratitude, and with the help of local refugees, one named Mr Wurzl, (who was befriended by a local family), the children built a model of the outlook tower at Schonfeld near Carlsbad, Czechoslovakia, in the school garden. It is believed it may have been destroyed when Queensferry Primary School was built on the grounds. Its whereabouts today are unknown.
Altogether some 60,000 Jewish refugees arrived in Britain seeking asylum, with around 50,000 settling permanently and the remainder subsequently relocating to North America, Australia or the newly formed state of Israel. They were rescued from certain death in the holocaust and given shelter at farms, camps, hostels and in private homes in Britain.
Picture
Herr Wurzl with the tower, reproduced with kind permission of the owner.

In May 1939​ The Evening News reported “Butlaw Camp at South Queensferry has again resumed its full programme as a holiday resort for unemployed men and their dependants. During the past few days 100 families consisting of 560 persons had move in and arrangements have been made to accommodate this number weekly until September.  As a result of extensive alterations commenced last season, each of the 100 families has its own complete house consisting of living room, and bedroom cubicles Every household convenience such as running water and utensils for table use is provided. The beds are equipped with spring mattresses white slips, sheets and blankets. Four meals are provided each day. Each family is charged 15 s per week.”
​
 This was to be short-lived. 

In June 1939​ The Evening News reported  that the Admiralty , who retained ownership of the area, had urgent needs and the camp was told to evacuate. Under the terms by which the ground and existing huts and other buildings were leased, the Admiralty reserved the rights to resume occupancy at any time of emergency.
This shattered the holiday hopes of hundreds of families in Edinburgh and elsewhere in Scotland .  During the period of 7 years Butlaw Holiday Camp had provided cheap holidays for 70,000 men women and children.
 “At a time when the nation was disarming facilities, thoughts of national emergency were far from the public mind as arrangements were made for the development of the holiday camp scheme, and the dismantling of the camp and all it stood for, is one of the minor tragedies of the current international situation. But for the needs of the Admiralty about 10,000 unemployed men and their wives and children would have enjoyed holidays at the camp during the present summer season. Another, more unfortunate result of the evacuation, is the discharge of about 60 workers including cooks, gardeners, engineers, and chauffeurs who obtained summer employment at the camp.”
Suitable premises were sought, for a transfer but there were none available.
Arrangements had been made for 69,000 persons attending the camp that season and all of them had to be put off.
One of the men at Butlaw said “you have Hitler to thank for this!”
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A Jewish citizen of Warsaw, forced to wear the 'Star of David', employed on turning a public park into a Jewish cemetery during the winter of 1940. Image: © IWM (IA 37590)

                                                                               FOOTNOTE
In February 1937, the Admiralty had announced they had no intention of re-opening Port Edgar as a Naval Base. Several men had been employed there to carry on maintenance work so that if the Admiralty authorities ever needed the base, they would find it in good condition however this announcement  seemed to indicate that the base would be allowed to become derelict.

In 1938 –  it was announced that work was commencing on the ex destroyer barracks, at the West end of Port Edgar  to convert them into a hospital.

In June 1939 the Evening News reported that “Port Edgar has been transformed from rust and decay into a hospital for the home fleet equipped as well as any modern hospital. To the west of the hospital proper, is a large well appointed building in which are situated staff quarters.”
​
Then in July 1939, the Evening News reported –“It was known that the Admiralty had decided to make use of the base, one of the consequences was the closing of the Butlaw Holiday Camp for the unemployed. But the actual purpose was only revealed yesterday. The Forth is to be the training ground for 1,000 men from the fishing fleets each year for the trawler section of the mine sweeping and patrol service. The patrol, this being based on Port Edgar, is an important one.”

Port Edgar is now a thriving Marina and Water Sports Centre and all that remains of Butlaw is a low wall.
© Queensferry History Group 2020
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Lieutenant Commander Lionel “Buster” Crabb

1/3/2019

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We are interested in “Buster” Crabb” as he stayed at HMS Lochinvar, Port Edgar, South Queensferry in the late 1940’s – early 1950’s. 
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Image: 'Buster' Crabb - Wikimedia Public Domain
   The following information below is sourced from Wikipedia and Historic -Uk
In 1946, mine clearance of the Firth of Forth and East coast was co-ordinated and carried out from the base and in 1948 it was used for minesweeping trials and experiments. Buster was involved in diving equipment trials. It is said he was very fond of the wardroom mess bar!
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Image: Queensferry History Group - Today this is the area immediately to the right of the road approaching the main gate of Port Edgar sailing centre. Once a quarry, later to be a cooling pond and then became the trials pond. This would have been used by Buster Crabb.
Lionel Crabb was born in London on 28th January 1909.  He was announced missing, presumed dead on 19th April 1956.
He trained for a naval career and joined first the Merchant Navy then the Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve before the Second World War.  At the outbreak of the War he was a merchant seaman gunner then he joined the Royal Navy in 1941. The following year he was sent to Gibraltar where he worked in a mine and bomb disposal unit, initially disarming limpet mines removed from the hulls of allied ships. He eventually decided to learn to dive. 

He was one of a group of underwater clearance divers who checked for limpet mines in Gibraltar harbour. In 1942 he was awarded the George Cross for his efforts during Italian frogmen and torpedo attacks.
In 1943 he became Principal Diving Officer for Northern Italy, assigned to clear mines in the ports of Livorno and Venice. He later received an O.B.E.  (Order of the British Empire) for these services. By this time he had gained the nickname “Buster” after American actor and swimmer Buster Crabbe, who’s most popular roles included Tarzan and Flash Gordon.
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Image,The American Buster Crabbe as Tarzan. Google Images.
After the war Crabb was stationed in Palestine and led an underwater explosives disposal team that removed mines that were placed by Jewish divers from the maritime force of the elite Jewish fighting force.
After 1947, he was demobilised from the military and he remained in close contact with his military comrades, assisting with a number of naval projects.

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Image: Lionel "Buster" Crabb on left. Daily Mail on Line.
He moved to civilian work using his diving skills, then later returned to work for the Royal Navy. He twice dived to investigate sunken Royal Navy submarines — HMS Truculent that sank after an accidental collision with a Swedish oil tanker on the Thames Estuary in January 1950 and HMS Affray that sank in the English Channel, reason unknown, in 1951 — to find out whether there were any survivors. Both efforts were fruitless. 
Hover cursor over images below to read information

HMS Affray. Image: Public Domain
HMS Ruculent. Image: Public Domain
 In March 1955, Crabb was made to retire due to his age, but a year later he was recruited by MI6. By this point, Crabb's heavy drinking and smoking had taken its toll on his health, and Crabb was not the diver that he had been in World War II.    
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Image: 'Buster' Crabb. Wikimedia Public Domain
Spy or not to Spy? 
The following information below is condensed from the Daily Express October 27th 2006. Reporters  Paul Callan and Cyril Dixon 
At aged 47, in 1956, as a retired lieutenant commander in the royal reserve, MI6 ordered him to swim underneath the massive soviet warship, Sverdlov - class Cruiser Ordzhonikidze which was in Portsmouth harbour and bristled with state of the art weaponry.  On board were Nikita Khrushchev and Marshal Nikolai Bulganin, the two most powerful men in Russia, on a goodwill mission to Britain.
Senior officers at MI6 wanted to know what special equipment existed below the waterline. This was hazardous not only for “Buster” Crabb but it was also very risky diplomatically since the cold war between Russia and the west was particularly arctic at that moment.
Crabb dived early in the morning of April 19th 1956, with 2 hours of oxygen, but was never seen again. He had been out of the navy for more than a year by this time and had been drinking heavily the night before.
 
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image: A Soviet Cruiser of the "Sverdlov" class. © IWM (A 35211) - under free non commercial License
In June the following year, a headless handless body wearing  a diving suit, was found floating in Chichister harbour. This was later said to be Crabb, and he was rapidly buried in Portsmouth. His ex-wife and girlfriend both claimed that this corpse was in fact, not him. It seems Buster had easily identifiable toes.
The government were frantic to play down claims that he was spying on the cruiser and the Prime Minister, Sir Anthony Eden told the house of commons, “it would not be in the public interest to disclose the circumstances in which commander Crabb is presumed to have met his death”.
That the government were embarrassed is in no doubt and they tried to play down Busters role. The Admiralty insisted he was only trying out new equipment and just happened to be in the area of the Soviet Cruiser. 


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Image: Sally Port Hotel, Portsmouth. www.historyinportsmouth.co.uk
(An extract from the Sally Port Hotel website where Buster Crabb stayed in Portsmouth, states that after he went missing, all his belongings were removed and the page where his name had been recorded was removed, and not by them. MI6 had tried to cover up the mission and went as far as to say he had died during a test dive in Stokes Bay. The Soviets responded to this by saying that they had indeed seen a frogman near the cruiser).  
Many rumours circulated about what had happened to him. Some said he was killed by the Russians who mistook him for a saboteur, some said he was captured and taken to Russia. It was said that there may have been a wet compartment underneath the Ordzhonikidze that had frogmen waiting in case other frogmen came investigating.  One such frogman claimed to have spotted Crabb below the ship and cut his throat.
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Image: Nikita Khrushchev, first secretary of the Soviet Communist Party, and Nikolai Bulganin, Soviet premier, on board the cruiser Ordzhonikidze, April 1956 (Voenno-Morskoĭ Flot Photographs, Box 1, Hoover Institution Archives)- researchteacher.com
A secret dossier was smuggled across the iron curtain in 1959 by British agents. It claimed that Crabb had been watched by the Soviets while staying in a Portsmouth hotel and that officers on the Ordzhonikidze were waiting for him. The dossier also claims he was questioned by the cruisers political officer but he remained silent. The officer was ordered to abandon the interrogation and to keep him drugged, in a hospital bed, with a bandage face, and declare he was a sick crew member, in case of unexpected developments. There have been claims that 7 years later he was seen in a Russian sanatorium by a visitor and the description certainly sounded very like him.
 
That there was a big cover up is sure in many minds, but there is still, over 50 years on (at the time of the article being written -2006), no answer to what happened to Buster.
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Image: www.submerged .co.uk
One of Crabbs few remaining relatives had recently said “we deserved to know what happened to a man who served his country honourably and with integrity. He was a decorated war hero and a true patriot”.
Crabb had been a brilliant frogman who won the George medal in the Second World War. He was noted for his skill in bomb disposal in Gibraltar and Italy and his heroic wartime exploits were made into a film, “The Silent Enemy” in 1958. On land he wore Saville Row suits, a monocle and carried a swordstick with a crab carved on the handle. But his health was failing and by the time of his disappearance friends were worried about his heavy drinking. He was also short of money and it is possible he took on the unofficial espionage to help shore up his dwindling finances. “Whatever the truth of the fate of Crabb, he was a sad victim sucked into the darkness of intelligent intrigue”.

© Queensferry History Group 2019
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Port Edgar Years

4/10/2015

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Dates in the life of Queensferry's Naval Base.
(1850's – 1978)
(reproduced with the kind permission of author, Peter A Collinson)
1850's – onwards Royal Navy Guardships are regularly stationed off Queensferry
                Port  Edgar Pier likely to have been used as a Fleet landing place.
1878 – The North British Railway open a rail ferry link between the West Breakwater                 at Port Edgar and the Town pier at North Queensferry. Completing the
              Edinburgh to Dunfermline line.
1891-1906 – HMS Caledonia, a boy cadet training ship is moored off Port Edgar. A
              total of 600 boys could be accommodated.
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HMS Caledonia
1901 – Work commences on the construction of Rosyth Naval base.
1916 – The Admiralty acquire Port Edgar and adjacent land. Site is to be developed as
             an annexe to the newly opened naval base at Rosyth, as a Torpedo Boat
             Destroyer Depot. Complete with her own oil fuelling facility.
1917 – Port Edgar is commissioned as HMS Columbine, Torpedo Boat Destroyer
            Depot under the command of Captain Cherry R.N. A total of 66 destroyers can
​             be accommodated in the 'pens'.
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HMS Columbine. The Flag Officer for Scotland was based on her. The name Columbine was chosen as Port Edgar's new name once in commission and the newly completed destroyer depot was commissioned as HMS Columbine in December 1917.
1917 – Grand Fleet engage units of the German High seas Fleet off Heligoland Bight.
             Port Edgar based destroyers in action.
1918 – Surrendered German High Seas Fleet is escorted into the Firth of Forth in
​             preparation for internment at Scapa Flow. Port Edgar destroyers provide
​             escort for up to 50 German destroyers.
1919 -  A mutiny takes place aboard destroyers of the First flotilla. Crews object to
             conditions of service in the North Russia Campaign and refuse to set sail.
1924-1926 – Captain Andrew Browne Cunninham as Commanding Officer at Port
             Edgar. Later to become Commander in Chief, Naval Forces in the
             Mediterranean during WW2 and later as Admiral of the Fleet.

1928-1938 – HMS Columbine Destroyer Base and the Naval Hospital at Butlaw are
            closed and placed under 'care and maintenance'. Much opposition from the
            population as a number of locals make their living supplying sand working
​            within the base.
Picture
Butlaw Naval Hospital
1938 – Work commences on the ex destroyer barracks, at the West end of Port Edgar,
              to convert them into a hospital.
1939 – Port Edgar is commissioned as HMS Lochinvar, a training establishment for
              officers and men of the Royal navy Patrol Service, who would go on to serve
              in Fleet Minesweepers and Trawlers.
              October, German Air Raid on the Forth Bridge, warships in river, HMS
             Southampton, HMS Mowhawk and HMS Edinburgh are hit and sustain
             casualties. Hospital at Port Edgar treats wounded personnel.
1943 – Commissions as HMS Hopetoun, a combined Operations Training Centre in
              preparation for the D-Day landings. (Meanwhile HMS Lochinvar and
              minesweeping training transfers to Granton). Landing Craft crews train
              with Force 'S' for the Normandy landings.
1946 – HMS Lochinvar returns to Port edgar. Mine clearance of the Firth of Forth
            and East coast is co-ordinated and carried out from the base.
1948 -  Base becomes a Minesweeping Trials and Experimental Establishment.
1958 – Fishery Protection Squadron is based at Port Edgar.
1960 – As HMS Lochinvar, Port Edgar becomes responsible for all minesweeping
​              training in the Fleet.
Picture
Postcard of Port Edgar, owned by a member of Queensferry History Group.
1962 – His Majesty King Olav of Norway visits Port Edgar and reviews ships of the
              Scottish command.
1963 – Port Edgar Minesweepers take part in live minesweeping operations off
              Iceland and the Continent.
1974 – Mine clearance of the Suez Canal conducted by Port Edgar based vessels.
1975 – New Fleet base is commissioned at Rosyth Naval Base.
              October – HMS Lochinvar, Port Edgar closes.
1978 – Lothian Regional Council purchases site from the Ministry of Defence.
​
Note : In 1988 the Algerines Association erected a memorial cairn at the southern
   end of the main jetty, dedicated to ll who served there in 1939-1975.
(Peter A Collinson is a keen naval and local history enthusiast and was a member
                     of  Queensferry History Group at the time of writing this).


Picture
(photo by Peter Collinson)
© Queensferry History Group 2015
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Port Edgar and May Island

1/8/2015

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Picture
Image of May Island by mytravelmonet.co.uk
An infamous episode of naval activity involving Port Edgar Destroyers was the 'Battle' of May Island (not actually a battle!). On the 31 January 1918, a large force of warships sailed from their anchorages and berths in the Forth, to participate in an exercise, code named EC1. Amongst this armada were 9 'K' class submarines, destroyers and several major warships. The whole force in line ahead stretched for 20 miles. The exercise conditions dictated that they keep radio silence and reduce navigation lighting.
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Shortly after 7pm, approaching May Island, the force came across a small group of ally minesweepers, their own side. In the mist and darkness, confusion reigned. In the attempt to avoid the minesweepers, rapid course changes were made. As a result a collision occurred when K14 was struck by k22. What followed was a series of subsequent collisions and bungled rescue attempts. All of which resulted in the loss of 100 lives, 2 submarines, K4 and K17, and damage to 5 other vessels. Those who lost their lives are remembered by the monument erected at Anstruther, in Fife. (k14 scrapped in 1925) (K22 raised and refitted, scrapped in 1926)
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The subsequent investigation and court martial were kept quiet, with much of the information not released until the 1990's. Three days later at Rosyth, aboard the battleship HMS Orion, the proceedings began before Rear-Admiral William Edmund Goodenough and Captain Walter Maurice Ellerton. On the 9th of February, the court finished its investigation and submitted its findings to Admiral Beatty, blaming five officers from the K-boats for the collisions. One was later court-martialled and severely reprimanded.
Extracts are with kind permission of Peter A Collinson,
 condensed from his book 'The Royal Navy at Port Edgar'-2004.

© Queensferry History Group 2015
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Port Edgar Destroyers, 1917, etc.

1/7/2015

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Picture
'V' 'W' Class Destroyer. Painting by permission of artist, Jim Rae
In 1917 the 'V and' W' class destroyers made its appearance. This class was destined to be the most successful and enduring destroyer of the 20th century. A total of 67 vessels were built. The 'V' and 'W' class was the epitome of a destroyer and many graced the jetties of HMS Columbine up until the late 1920's. Such was the durability of this class of destroyer, that almost half of them went on to see service throughout  the inter-war years and into the second world war.

Picture
German Torpedo Boat 1917. shirehamptonbookofremembrance.webs.com
The destroyer was developed from the end of the 19th century as a response to the rising threat of the torpedo boat. Vessels were designed and built specifically for the purpose of destroying torpedo boats. the actual name 'Destroyer' being derived from the term 'Torpedo Boat Destroyer'. This class of vessel not only eliminated the torpedo boat, but for a time replaced it.

The main duty of a destroyer in wartime is that of the outer guarding of the battle fleet. This was achieved by forming a screen around the main units of the fleet, this could also be applied to a convoy of merchant ships. Therefore providing  protection against enemy attack. They were without doubt the workhorses of the fleet enduring long and regular periods at sea in appalling weather. Their duties included submarine detection, patrolling, convoy work, and mine laying, all of which would bring them into close contact with the enemy.

Life and conditions were difficult. Crews enduring cramped and uncomfortable living quarters, stormy seas and the inevitable sea sickness. 


Picture
V and W Class escort, (probably WW2) . Shows an example of sea conditions. Painting by permission of artist, Jim Rae
Picture
Map showing Heligoland Bight, (naval-history.net), in South Eastern North Sea. This was the second battle here, the first was in 1914.
On 17th November 1917, Port Edgar based destroyers, along with major units of the Grand Fleet, engaged the German High Sea Fleet off the Heligoland Bight. Naval Intelligence had reported that a large enemy force was carrying out minesweeping operations off the Bight. They were a considerable distance from their home base. 

Admiral Sir David Beatty wasted no time and sailed from the Firth of Forth with the 1st Battle Cruiser Squadron, the 1st Cruiser Squadron , two light Cruiser Squadrons and screening Destroyers. What followed was a hot running battle. No major losses were sustained by either side. However the light cruiser Calypso suffered  shell damage, and lost 8 men including her Commanding Officer Captain H E Edwards, to whom a  memorial was erected in the graveyard at South Queensferry – 
(see Common wealth Graves 1917)

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Apart from one other occasion this was the last time that the two naval antagonists of the Great War were to meet before the armistice was signed in November 1918.

Life at Port Edgar became even more hectic, following the decision in April 1918 to transfer the entire grand fleet from Scapa Flow to the Firth of Forth, some 150 warships in all. The main advantage to the Grand Fleet was that she was nearer to her enemy. However the downside was a now massively congested Rosyth, and anchorages above and below the Forth Bridge only increasing the difficult ship maneuvering, particularly in the strong tides. The jetties at Port Edgar must have been near to bursting point.


Picture
Destroyers berthed in Port Edgar 1917, just a small number compared to the 150 to arrive.
Getting in and out of the Forth in these days was no easy task. As well as the inner anti submarine nets, which were passable, following the correct light sequencing being shown on the Forth Bridge, there was also the outer anti submarine defences to be negotiated between Eli and Fidra Island, at the entrance to the Forth. Four separate defence systems in all.
They were essential to the Forth's security. Earlier in the war, a late night intrusion by the German submarine U.21  reached as far as the Forth Bridge before she was detected. Her attempt at destroying ships of the Grand Fleet were thwarted. She made her escape into the North Sea where three days later she torpedoed and sunk the light cruiser Pathfinder, on the 25th September 1914. This was the first ever warship destroyed by a torpedo fired from a submarine.(See Commonwealth Graves 1914)

Picture
Extracts are with kind permission of Peter A Collinson,
 condensed from his book 'The Royal Navy at Port Edgar'-2004.

© Queensferry History Group 2015
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Rosyth and Port Edgar

1/6/2015

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Picture
Above: St Margaret's Hope Naval Base, before land reclamation to develop Rosyth Naval Base. Below: Rosyth Naval Base after Land Reclamation. The black dot on images show the same land mark which give indication of the extent of the work done.
Picture
Picture
Rosyth showing the oil fuel depot top left
Rosyth with Battleship
Rosyth Village, housing created for the workers building the Naval Base
(Hover over these three images to read information and click on image to enlarge)
    In 1909, work commenced on the construction of Rosyth Naval Base. Up until this time the only naval base on Britain's Eastern seaboard was at Chatham, on the River Medway, hundreds of miles to the South.
 It was the very existence of the new base at Rosyth that was to give Port Edgar its break onto the stage of British Naval History.
As early as 1911 the Admiralty had made enquiries regarding the use of Port Edgar as an oil fuel depot for Fleet Destroyers and other small craft.

 In the Spring of 1916, the Admiralty took steps to officially acquire Port Edgar and surrounding land. (Warships and fleet tenders had been using the limited facilities at the port since the outbreak of war.)

This followed a decision to build a self- contained Torpedo Boat Destroyer Depot on the site. By early 1916 work had been progressing for some time to achieve this. The Navy's intention being to create a self -contained state of the art destroyer depot, providing berthing and shore support facilities for up to 52 destroyers. In fact by the base's completion date, up to 66 vessels could be accommodated.

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May 1917, base construction, upgrading the East Breakwater
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 Destroyers berthed, 1917 - SCRAN reference 000-000-602-118-R
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Port Edgar Destroyer Base, 1920's
The work required to achieve this was considerable and included the dredging of the harbor and the upgrading of the east breakwater. The seaward end was in a poor state of repair having been washed away over the years. It is believed that the stone to construct the original east breakwater which was probably well over 100 years old, was hewn from the freestone quarry which was situated immediately to the east of the current entrance to Port Edgar. The quarry became the "Pond" and years later was filled in to make way for the Forth Road Bridge. Berthing jetties would have to be built including "dolphins" to berth fueling tankers. Shore facilities would include barracks, workshops, a power generating station, a distilling plant and for the ship's crews, recreation and sporting facilities. The extent of the area as a whole, was the whole of Shore Road, from its junction with Hopetoun Road (excepting the schoolhouse) in the East, to its junction with Society Road and beyond, towards the fisheries in the West.

To provide the fleet of destroyers fueling requirements, an oil fuel depot was also built. Situated on the higher ground to the South East of the base, this would take the form of 4 giant oil tanks. They survived up until the late 1950's when they were demolished to make way for the construction of the Forth Road Bridge.


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TODAY THIS IS THE AREA IMMEDIATELY TO THE RIGHT OF THE ROAD APPROACHING THE MAIN GATE OF PORT EDGAR SAILING CENTRE. ONCE A QUARRY, LATER TO BECOME A COOLING POND THEN THE TRIALS POND. YOU CAN SEE TWO OF THE OIL TANKS IN THE BACKGROUND.
The destroyers at this time were supported by their depot ships. These vessels were large purpose built units fitted out with workshops, storerooms and spare parts.

They also carried trained expertise to rectify breakdowns and carry out maintenance. As well as engineering support, the depot ship had gunnery and torpedo experts aboard. Medical and dental facilities were available along with living accommodation as required by the destroyer crews.

Port Edgar would replace the depot ships, once completed all support staff and responsibilities would transfer ashore. About this time the naval dockyard at Rosyth was being completed. The Flag Officer for Scotland had been based aboard HMS Columbine, a converted vessel from the age of sail, since July 1913. Once the admiral and staff moved ashore at Rosyth, the Columbine was decommissioned and sold. The name Columbine was chosen as Port Edgar's new name once in commission and the newly completed destroyer depot was commissioned as HMS Columbine in December 1917.


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HMS Columbine
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HMS Columbine
The total number of sailors available including destroyer crews was some 6,000 men. Apart from the Metropolitan Police who were responsible for base security, Port Edgar was  purely service manned.

Work on the base had been progressing for some considerable time prior to its official commissioning. It is likely that destroyers of the grand fleet were using the partially completed jetties as early as spring 1916. Certainly by the beginning of May there were at least 3 destroyer flotillas based on the Firth of Forth. Many of these vessels utilising the new Port Edgar facility were 'M' Class Destroyers.


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'R' Class destroyer alongside Pens.
In the early Summer of that year, the world witnessed that most epic of Naval Battles, Jutland. The grand fleet lost a total of 14 vessels, 8 of those were destroyers. Some of the dead and wounded were landed at Port Edgar after the battle. The wounded bound for the hospital at Butlaw. A number of dead are laid to rest in the local cemetery, see 'Commonwealth Games'.
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"The Royal Navy At Port Edgar" –Peter A Collinson, 2004
© Queensferry History Group 2015
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Port Edgar and Butlaw

1/5/2015

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Royal Naval Hospital, Butlaw, South Queensferry
1896 map of Butlaw area. (map published by Godfrey Maps, Gateshead).
Port Edgar and Butlaw 
In 1892, discussions had been underway for some time, between the Admiralty and the Treasury, regarding funding, in an attempt to acquire a suitable site for sick quarters ashore at Queensferry, primarily for the use of HMS Caledonia. Various locations in the area were considered,  including Plewlands House and properties in the High Street. Also land in the Dundas and Rosebery Estates was considered. The requirement for such an establishment was to create the Royal Navy's first official settlement ashore at Queensferry. 
Fate was to lend a hand in deciding a site for the sick quarters, when an outbreak of Scarlet Fever among the young Cadets aboard  HMS Caledonia forced rapid action on the acquisition of land. There were fatalities and no records found so far, other than Memorial in the Old Kirk,  the Vennel. –( H.M.S. Caledonia in Memoriam, …G. Gibson, Boy- 4.4.1892 - (aged 15, Meningitis),  A.H. Robinson- 15.5.1892, J.W. Patterson- 16.5.1892 - (aged 17, Drowned), M. Masterson- 20.5.1892, S. Rowe- A.B. 31.5.1892, G.R. Brooman- Boy- 16.6.1892, J. Slobom- 10.7.1892- (aged 16, Drowned),  D. Yunnie- 5.1.1893,  W. Hutton-15.3.1893,  T. Conoboy- 24.3.1893.,  C. McQueen-
6.5.1893 – (aged 17, Scarlet Fever), J. Leitch- 20.7.1893,  Abraham Shaw- Boy-24.7.1894, William D.Nicholson- Boy-25.7.1894.  - Erected by their Shipmates.)
The Earl of Hopetoun offered to lease 2 acres of ground at Lower Butlaw, and this was accepted. A temporary hospital, of galvanized iron was quickly constructed to isolate infected Cadets, at a cost of £500.00 sterling.  At the same time the adjoining land was also acquired as a recreation field. This sports ground was later to be known by locals as "The Cale Park". 
In 1903 the Admiralty obtained a larger part of the area from the Hopetoun Estate at a feu of £371 sterling per annum. This allowed for a more permanent and expanded Naval Hospital to be built. By 1905 the first buildings had been completed, the main hospital being in Lower Butlaw on the North side of the road.
Later further building was extended into the upper site. This consisted of two brick buildings, one to be used as Skin Wards and a larger brick building as Voluntary Aid Detachment Quarters, once completed the site became the Royal Naval Hospital, South Queensferry. All that remains today is a low stone wall which runs along the narrow road at Butlaw. For almost 25 years this hospital was to serve Naval Personnel in the Rosyth and Forth areas, both from ashore and afloat. On many occasions it would treat Naval casualties of World War One.   
(There were to be more Military Hospitals than this in Queensferry, but more on them later).

Extracts are with kind permission of Peter A Collinson, condensed from his book 'The Royal Navy at Port Edgar'-2004.

© Queensferry History Group 2015


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Port Edgar Rail Rail/Ferry and HMS Caledonia

2/4/2015

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Port Edgar Rail Ferry
A significant event in the development of Port Edgar occurred in the early 18o0's, the Government upgraded piers and landing places in North and South Queensferry. Civil Engineer John Rennie was given this task. This followed the advent of turnpike roads from Perth to North Queensferry, and on the Southern shore a turnpike road from Edinburgh to South Queensferry. Up until this period the ferry services between North and South Queensferry had been poorly run. All this changed when an act of Parliament decreed the running of the ferry be put into the hands of a group of trustees. Government funding was provided to upgrade landing facilities.

Port Edgar's pier upgrade cost almost £5,000, a grand sum in those days. The other piers upgraded on the South side were the Hawes Pier, Port Nuke and Longcraig. In addition, accommodation for the boatmen and their families was constructed on the foreshore of Newhalls, just outside the Queensferry boundary in those days.
In 1842 a railway line was opened between Glasgow and Edinburgh. By the late 1860's a branch line had been built from Ratho to Dalmeny which included the power to construct and operate a direct rail ferry crossing between Port Edgar and North Queensferry, (train to the jetty then Ferry across the water). The North British Railway obtained the title deed to construct and operate a direct rail ferry crossing between Port Edgar and North Queensferry in 1869 but  it wasn't until 1878 that the railway came into service. 
It was to serve as a Rail Ferry Terminus, linking the Lothians to Fife and the North of Scotland for almost 12 years.

The work required by the North British railway Company to extend the line was considerable, not least the construction of the west breakwater. The arrival of the rail network at Port Edgar caused the existing station at Newhalls to be closed. The ferry commenced running from Port Edgar's west breakwater on 1st October 1878, calling at the Hawes Pier for road traffic if the tide was suitable.
When the Forth Rail Bridge was officially opened by Prince Edward, the Prince of Wales, in March 1890 this had the immediate effect of making Port Edgar's Rail Ferry redundant, 
however the North British Railway retained a small amount of track and fittings and used the site as a sleeper creosoting depot. The rail tracks can be seen there to this day.

c1940
Although this Picture is from the second World War, dated circa 1940, you can see the remains of the Railway line, on the left, which brought the Trains to Port Edgar, where people picked up the Ferry to cross over the Firth of Forth.
HMS Caledonia, Training Ship
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HMS Caledonia
The Victorian Navy was a large one and a constant supply of manpower was required to man the fleet.  Boy volunteers were recruited and many of them were trained on former ships of the line. Huge wooden hulks often previous 1st or 2nd rate vehicles, some with illustrious histories of battle, before them, were fitted out to accommodate and convert hundreds of boys into able bodied seamen. The vessels were usually moored or anchored off major ports around the country. Port Edgar was to become host to one of these vessels. HMS Caledonia started life at her launch in 1810 as HMS Impregnable. As such, she saw action at the bombardment of Algiers in 1816. Later, after being renamed HMS Kent she was fitted out as a hulk for epidemic cases at Devonport Plymouth. On 6th April 1891, having been renamed HMS Caledonia, she was allocated as the boys training ship for Scotland. The following October she arrived in the Firth of Forth, her permanent mooring being just to the west of the newly opened Forth Rail Bridge. The Caledonia was to remain moored off Port Edgar in her training role for the next 15 years, a familiar sight to the townsfolk and visitors to Queensferry and no doubt to the many passing river craft of the day. 

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Royal Navy House early 1900's. photo from 'Back Doon The Ferry', a Queensferry History Group publication-1992, still available from Queensferry History Group.
Shortly after the arrival of HMS Caledonia, a proposal was put forward to provide a sailors home ashore in Queensferry. A place where the men and boys of the fleet could come ashore and spend their leisure time in comfortable and attractive surroundings. Funds were raised to purchase Bridge House, a large red brick building, built for the Chief Engineer of the Forth Bridge, on New Halls Road, acquired for £1,200. The property overlooked the promenade and commanded a magnificent view of the River and the Bridge, and was officially opened as Royal Navy House in 1895.  In 1906, it was decided to withdraw the HMS Caledonia from the Queensferry area, when she was towed away and scrapped. This caused immediate closure of Royal Navy House. It was re-opened in 1910 when units of the Home Fleet were stationed in the Firth of Forth and was used as a hospital  during the 1914-18 War.Over the years the building has been extended and in modern times is let as flats.
"The Royal Navy At Port Edgar" –Peter A Collinson, 2004



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Royal Navy House
© Queensferry History Group 2015
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Port Edgar

1/3/2015

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(Let's start at the beginning!)
We can trace the origins of Queensferry's  name back to the 11th Century, when in 1067, a fleeing Princess Margaret and her brother Edgar, on the run from the English Norman Court, reputedly came ashore in the vicinity of Port Edgar.  Margaret's brother, Edgar Atheling, Edward the Confessors Nephew, gave Port Edgar its name. Margaret who went on to marry Malcolm Canmore, the Scottish King, regularly used the ferry across the Forth, giving Queensferry its name. (You will be able to read more of this in a future Blog update).
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Priory Church, South Queensferry http://www.priorychurch.com
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The coat of arms of the former Royal Burgh of Queensferry
 One of the oldest land owning families in the area were the Dundasses of Dundas, It was James Dundas who invited the Whitefriers to Queensferry in c1330. As the Carmelite Order, they established a Priory which still stands today and serves the community as the Priory Church of St Mary, (a Grade A listed building, now a Scottish Episcopal Church. You will be able to read more of this in a future Blog update.). This church is the oldest building in Queensferry.
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Port Edgar Naval Base from 'Doon The Ferry' a Queensferry History Group publication
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Malcolm greeting Margaret on her arrival in South Queensferry, Scotland. Detail from a mural by the Victorian artist William Hole. 'Wikipedia'
In 1636 Queensferry was granted Royal Burgh status by King Charles 1. During 16th and 17th centuries, Queensferry was a successful sea port. In 1641 the port boasted as many as 20 brigs and various coastal vessels. The main exports were soap, coal, wool, hides, and salt, whilst importing wines, silks, linen and Baltic timber. It is most likely that Port Edgar would have played its part in this trade not so much as a port, perhaps, but that of an industrial site in support of the export trade. It is recorded that in 1770 there had been a Soap factory on the Port Edgar site. Through the centuries, Port Edgar has been used for a number of industrial concerns, including a Lime works. In the 1850's at the Fisheries, a little to the West of the Port, 30 or more men were employed in the fishing trade, catching Salmon, Conger Eel, Skate, Flounder and Mussels. Up until the early 20th Century, a slaughterhouse was situated at the east end of the Port."

 (We hope we have whetted your appetite, and you can read more in future Blog updates). 

Backgound painting courtesy of Jim Rae
© Queensferry History Group 2015
Port Edgar
The following extracts are with kind permission of Peter A Collinson, condensed from his book 'The Royal Navy at Port Edgar'-2004.

"In October 1975, the White Ensign was lowered for the final time from the quarterdeck mast of HMS Lochinvar, bringing to a close, 100 years and more, of the Royal Navy at Port Edgar. This small horseshoe shaped harbour was Queensferry's Naval Base. As such it served the Nation in War and Peace.


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