Dalmeny village consists of early 19th-century cottages along the main street with 20th-century housing to the south close to the A90. To the south of the A90 is the Dalmeny Tank Farm, a large oil-storage facility operated by BP . The facility was constructed in the 1970s on a former oil shale mine, and is screened by a mound of the waste material from the mine. Oil is transferred to and from the site from tankers moored at the Hound Point Terminal in the Firth of Forth.
Besides the Parish Church, the most significant buildings are Dalmeny House and Barnbougle Castle, to the east of the village, home to the Earl of Rosebery. The most notable Earl was archibald, 5th Earl of Rosebery, who served as Prime Minister from 1894 to 1895 and is the grandfather of the present Earl.
Dalmeny House - Image, Craig Stephen - and Barnbougle Castle image Jonathan Oldenbuk - both common use.
St Cuthbert's, a category "A" listed building, is the best preserved Norman parish church in Scotland, probably built by Gospatric, Earl of Dunbar whose grandfather had fled from William the Conqueror.
As Gospatric III is known to have died in 1166, and spent some time as a monk in Durham (see image of St Cuthbert below for link to Durham) before his death, it is just about possible to make all the dates marry up and suggest that St Cuthbert's was built by him in about 1160. The parish system in Scotland was still evolving at the time, and the church was probably initially built for the worship of Gospatric himself, his family, retainers and the tenants of his estate. Over time this evolved into its use by anyone who lived in the parish.
However, people worshipped God here for many centuries before the little stone church was built. By the 7th century Dalmeny was on the northern fringe of the great kingdom of Northumbria. The Christian faith had taken root here, influenced by early saints and kings. One of these was Cuthbert to whom the church at Dalmeny would later be dedicated.
As Gospatric III is known to have died in 1166, and spent some time as a monk in Durham (see image of St Cuthbert below for link to Durham) before his death, it is just about possible to make all the dates marry up and suggest that St Cuthbert's was built by him in about 1160. The parish system in Scotland was still evolving at the time, and the church was probably initially built for the worship of Gospatric himself, his family, retainers and the tenants of his estate. Over time this evolved into its use by anyone who lived in the parish.
However, people worshipped God here for many centuries before the little stone church was built. By the 7th century Dalmeny was on the northern fringe of the great kingdom of Northumbria. The Christian faith had taken root here, influenced by early saints and kings. One of these was Cuthbert to whom the church at Dalmeny would later be dedicated.
Dalmeny Kirk is recognised as the finest Norman parish church still in use in Scotland, and one of the most complete in theUnited Kingdom, lacking only its original western tower
At the same time as the tower was built, a number of other changes that were made over the centuries, such as the insertion of a gallery in the west end of the church, a porch over the south door and a change in the height of the chancel roof, were reversed. Apart from the replacement tower, the only other significant addition to the original structure that remains is the Rosebery Aisle, built on the north side of the church in 1671 by an ancestor of the Earls of Rosebery. This comprised an upper floor lairds' loft which allowed the family to worship in comfort and privacy, with a family burial vault below.
The aisleless nave, choir and apse survive almost complete from the 12th century. The refined sculptural detail of the chancel and apse arches is notable, as is a series of powerful beast-head corbels supporting the apse vault. These features are also extremely well preserved, with the original tool-marks still visible. The beautiful Norman South Doorway arch is elaborately carved with fabulous beasts, grotesque heads and astrological figures. The door is comparable to the north door at Dunfermline Abbey.
The analysis of masons' marks found on stonework here and elsewhere suggests it was constructed by at least some of the same masons who had been responsible for work in Dunfermline Abbey in the 1140s and 1150s, and others who later worked on Leuchars Parish Church.
The analysis of masons' marks found on stonework here and elsewhere suggests it was constructed by at least some of the same masons who had been responsible for work in Dunfermline Abbey in the 1140s and 1150s, and others who later worked on Leuchars Parish Church.
Nearby is a rare 12th-century sarcophagus carved with 13 doll-like figures (possibly Christ and the 12 apostles) in niches (now very weathered). The churchyard also has a number of fine 17th- and 18th-century gravestone Interments in the churchyard.
When viewed from a distance the church appears to rise on a mound, it is speculated that it is built on a pre-Christian burial mound. This would mean that the graveyard predates the church. A second detached mound of smaller size lies on the east road out of the village. This pre-dating is further evidenced by the 7th-century coffin stone near the door which appears to have been dug up during the 1937 restoration.
When viewed from a distance the church appears to rise on a mound, it is speculated that it is built on a pre-Christian burial mound. This would mean that the graveyard predates the church. A second detached mound of smaller size lies on the east road out of the village. This pre-dating is further evidenced by the 7th-century coffin stone near the door which appears to have been dug up during the 1937 restoration.
Excluding the medieval coffin ,the oldest stone in the graveyard is a tombstone dated 1669; inscribed with the initials WR MG. The stones in the graveyard preserve the names of some ordinary Dalmeny families. Many stones are richly adorned with carved symbols of death and ressurection or representing the crafts and trades of the deceased.
Headstone 1 image - scotlandsgenealogy.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/dalmeny-west-lothian-parish.html
– Headstone 2 Image - Kim Traynor, wikimedia commons -The Ramsay Eagle, Dalmeny Kirkyard adorns the grave of 'Robert Ramsay, Mason in Croishall', who died in 1773. It perches on two chisels and a mell [mallet], emblems of a mason, and seems to be symbolically guarding the grave.
– Headstone 2 Image - Kim Traynor, wikimedia commons -The Ramsay Eagle, Dalmeny Kirkyard adorns the grave of 'Robert Ramsay, Mason in Croishall', who died in 1773. It perches on two chisels and a mell [mallet], emblems of a mason, and seems to be symbolically guarding the grave.
The graveyard also contains the graves of several former ministers, schoolmasters and local landowners, including Dundas of Dundas, Stewart-Clark of Dundas and Stewart of Newhalls.
The Rosebery family are intered in their family vault.
In his book "Summer Life on Land and Water (At South Queensferry), published in 1851, William Wallace Fyfe indicates that the church may have been a 'Templar' Church. He lists many reasons for thinking so, none the least the circular Eastern end, which existed in 1851 when he wrote his book. He states "it stands distinctly as a Temple Church" he goes on to say - "The names of the powerful Mowbrays, the formidable barons of Barnbougle, being found on the roll of the grand order of the Temple, at Paris, may account for the presence of a Temple Church at Dalmeny". He also suggests " Dalmney Church itself, with its circular chancel, is not more obviously a temple relic , than the gigantic stone sarcophagus, now lying open and unattended at the church door, which has once retained the bones of some departed Red Cross Knight."
The Rosebery family are intered in their family vault.
In his book "Summer Life on Land and Water (At South Queensferry), published in 1851, William Wallace Fyfe indicates that the church may have been a 'Templar' Church. He lists many reasons for thinking so, none the least the circular Eastern end, which existed in 1851 when he wrote his book. He states "it stands distinctly as a Temple Church" he goes on to say - "The names of the powerful Mowbrays, the formidable barons of Barnbougle, being found on the roll of the grand order of the Temple, at Paris, may account for the presence of a Temple Church at Dalmeny". He also suggests " Dalmney Church itself, with its circular chancel, is not more obviously a temple relic , than the gigantic stone sarcophagus, now lying open and unattended at the church door, which has once retained the bones of some departed Red Cross Knight."
This is supported by Thomas Orrock in his book "Fortha's Lyrics and other Poems" published in 1880 (although he may have taken his information from the book above). He states "Passing up the walk we encounter a large rude stone coffin lying at the door of the church, the form of the body cut out of the solid stone, which must have contained the bones of some Red Cross Kline night, the Church at one time having been used as a place of worship by the Knights Templars, as it's circular chancel denotes." He mentions many of his own relations are buried in the graveyard.
That the Knights Templar had associations with Scotland is in no doubt, but as to whether they arrived in Dalmeny may be up for debate. The Templars had been granted land in Scotland by King David 1st in the 1200's.
The history of the Knights Templar, (formed in 1118) is intertwined with the Wars of Independence between Scotland and England, of stories of Wallace and Bruce.
Various internet sites disagree with each other on the history of Knights Templar in Scotland.
A very informative book re the history of Dalmeny Church is available. "Dalmeny Church, Faith, History and the People", Author Flora Johnston, Photography by Hamish Campbell, published by Dalmeny Kirk of Scotland, is available from Dalmeny Church £5.00.
That the Knights Templar had associations with Scotland is in no doubt, but as to whether they arrived in Dalmeny may be up for debate. The Templars had been granted land in Scotland by King David 1st in the 1200's.
The history of the Knights Templar, (formed in 1118) is intertwined with the Wars of Independence between Scotland and England, of stories of Wallace and Bruce.
Various internet sites disagree with each other on the history of Knights Templar in Scotland.
A very informative book re the history of Dalmeny Church is available. "Dalmeny Church, Faith, History and the People", Author Flora Johnston, Photography by Hamish Campbell, published by Dalmeny Kirk of Scotland, is available from Dalmeny Church £5.00.
© Queensferry History Group 2016