The annual ‘Ferry Fair’ which we will explain more about later, was stopped for the years of the Second World War. It resumed again in 1947, 70 years ago this month, this year!
The next Ferry Fair is the week 7th-12th August 2017, with the parade and crowning ceremony on the 12th.
To understand the Ferry Fair we must first understand the origins of Queensferry.
The next Ferry Fair is the week 7th-12th August 2017, with the parade and crowning ceremony on the 12th.
To understand the Ferry Fair we must first understand the origins of Queensferry.
Image: Queensferry 1832 © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Origin of the Royal Burgh of Queensferry.
South Queensferry, once a small fishing village, became a Burgh at end of 13th century, as one of four trading Burghs (including Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy and Musselburgh) within the bounds of Dunfermline Regality, every Burgh was a trading community established to produce revenue. The Abbot of Dunfermline, as ‘Lord of Regality’, having jurisdiction over the territory, kept customs on merchandise exported from his lands, the customs on imports belonging to the crown. King Robert I, no later than 1329, granted the great customs collected at the four Burghs of Regality, to the convent of Dunfermline.
In order to encourage commercial dealings internally and within the outside world, the Burgh was granted the right to hold a weekly market and an annual fair. This right was shown materially with a Mercat Cross which determined the head place of the town.
South Queensferry, once a small fishing village, became a Burgh at end of 13th century, as one of four trading Burghs (including Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy and Musselburgh) within the bounds of Dunfermline Regality, every Burgh was a trading community established to produce revenue. The Abbot of Dunfermline, as ‘Lord of Regality’, having jurisdiction over the territory, kept customs on merchandise exported from his lands, the customs on imports belonging to the crown. King Robert I, no later than 1329, granted the great customs collected at the four Burghs of Regality, to the convent of Dunfermline.
In order to encourage commercial dealings internally and within the outside world, the Burgh was granted the right to hold a weekly market and an annual fair. This right was shown materially with a Mercat Cross which determined the head place of the town.
image, Dunfermline Abbey Ruins, from Dunfermline Presbetery website; link at end of article.
Dunfermline Abbey and the ruins around it are all that remain of a Benedictine Abbey founded by Queen Margaret in the eleventh century. The foundations of her church are under the present nave (or `Old Church`), built in the twelfth century in the Romanesque style by her son David. After the 16th century reformation Dunfermline ceased to be an Abbey, but since the nave of the church continued to be used as the local parish church, much of the Abbey has survived to this day. The present parish church, to the east of the Old Church, was added in the nineteenth century.
image: Dunfermline Abbey today; Wikipedia, by Paul McIlroy used under creative commons license ©
Some believe the weekly Fair started around 1068, in the time of King Malcolm III and his Queen, Margaret (whose visits to Dunfermline Abbey via ferry boat, gave ‘Queensferry’ its name). It was a civic duty to walk the boundaries of Queensferry, which were fiercely guarded. In the course of time it became a social duty to celebrate the day with feasting and dancing and so the Ferry Fair was born.
In a charter granted by the Laird of Dundas in 1440 describing the boundaries of land granted by him to the Carmelite Friary as a site for the Church and Monastery they proposed to build (now the Priory Church) there is mention of the Mercat Cross of Queensferry, standing on the east bank of the rivulet which flowed down to the sea as a boundary between the lands of Dundas and the burgh. This stream flowed approximately where the street named ‘The Loan’ now runs. The head of the burgh was in the vicinity of what is now known as the Bellstane where in olden days, lay a stretch of waste land on which markets were held.
Image: © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Through charters granted in 1576 and 1627, Queensferry believed they had the right to uplift the petty customs of all markets within the sheriffdom from the River Avon to the Almond. The town of Linlithgow challenged this and the customs officer of Linlithgow made an appearance at the annual Fair in Queensferry in July 1628 to collect the petty dues. The inhabitants of the burgh objected to his presence and a riot was started. The customs officer was injured and died. Arbitration ruled that Linlithgow had the right to the taxes. Queensferry was fined £800 scots pounds damages (1 pound Scots equal to 1s 8d sterling), and £100 scots pounds as expenses. The court decided the officer had died of natural causes. In 1629 the magistrates and councillors had to stand by at the Mercat Cross, while the customs officer of Linlithgow uplifted the petty customs for goods sold.
An act of parliament considered by evidence produced, confirmed the charter of 1636 and in 1641 erected Queensferry into a Royal Burgh. This settled the customs matter and Queensferry was now entitled to the customs without challenge. The money raised by taxes was vitally important to the upkeep of the town. It also seemed to have mutually settled any disagreements between Queensferry and Linlithgow.
An act of parliament considered by evidence produced, confirmed the charter of 1636 and in 1641 erected Queensferry into a Royal Burgh. This settled the customs matter and Queensferry was now entitled to the customs without challenge. The money raised by taxes was vitally important to the upkeep of the town. It also seemed to have mutually settled any disagreements between Queensferry and Linlithgow.
Image below, Dunfermline Mercat Cross
Image: Dunfermline Merkat Cross. Kim Traynor, used under Creative Commons License.
Markets and Fairs
The bell stane was probably a stone on which sat the handbell used by the Town Officer (for a sum of 4d) to herald the coming of the weekly market or the annual fair. At a later date the capital initial letter for Bellstane was applied to the name giving it significance. Samuel Wilson wanted to purchase the land where the markets were held but this was refused as the council wished to retain it as a market place. (In 1641 he then built and resided in Plewlands House which was then just outside the Queensferry border).
The bell stane was probably a stone on which sat the handbell used by the Town Officer (for a sum of 4d) to herald the coming of the weekly market or the annual fair. At a later date the capital initial letter for Bellstane was applied to the name giving it significance. Samuel Wilson wanted to purchase the land where the markets were held but this was refused as the council wished to retain it as a market place. (In 1641 he then built and resided in Plewlands House which was then just outside the Queensferry border).
Image, Plewlands House, © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
“It was here all the caravans, penny shows etc that came to Queensferry, ‘put up’. It was a great affair for the youth of Queensferry when some of these perambulating showmen made their appearance”.-Thomas Orrock, Fortha’s Lyrics,1880.
There is a carving on the wall at Bellstane (above the dentist) which shows a Bird and a Bell. The bell is believed to represent the bell rung to herald the markets and Fair (the original bell is now in Queensferry Museum). We are unsure of the history of the bird, however people born and bred in Queensferry are locally known as ‘Bellstane Birds’ and there was a local football team named ‘The Bellstane Birds’ (see Queensferry History archive dated 1/8/2015).
There is a carving on the wall at Bellstane (above the dentist) which shows a Bird and a Bell. The bell is believed to represent the bell rung to herald the markets and Fair (the original bell is now in Queensferry Museum). We are unsure of the history of the bird, however people born and bred in Queensferry are locally known as ‘Bellstane Birds’ and there was a local football team named ‘The Bellstane Birds’ (see Queensferry History archive dated 1/8/2015).
Bellstane Bird carving. Image , © Queensferry History group (QHG)
Ferry Fair
Each twelve months, preparations for the annual Ferry Fair were made. Proclamations were announced in Kirkliston and Linlithgow that “all persons may bring all sorts of wares and commodities to be sold” and brewers were called upon for hiring horses for the riding of the Fair. Before the 25th day of the month of July, the start of the fair week (St James day), booths were erected in the high street for £12 (scots) for each covered stand and £8.00 (scots) for each uncovered erection. All the burgesses were ordered to gather in their best dress including swords in order to ride the fair. If they did not turn up they were fined £14 (scots) and if they had no swords they were fined £7.00 (scots).
Each twelve months, preparations for the annual Ferry Fair were made. Proclamations were announced in Kirkliston and Linlithgow that “all persons may bring all sorts of wares and commodities to be sold” and brewers were called upon for hiring horses for the riding of the Fair. Before the 25th day of the month of July, the start of the fair week (St James day), booths were erected in the high street for £12 (scots) for each covered stand and £8.00 (scots) for each uncovered erection. All the burgesses were ordered to gather in their best dress including swords in order to ride the fair. If they did not turn up they were fined £14 (scots) and if they had no swords they were fined £7.00 (scots).
Records show in the year 1690, the annual fair was held in the high street. Great preparations had been made. The drum had a new head and new cords costing £1.11s scots. The tailor had mended the colours. The town officer travelled to Edinburgh to purchase hose for the foot race. The drummer and piper who attended the race were each given 12/- and 18/- respectively and a pint of ale each. A pair of boots was purchased as the prize for the Burgh race.
Image, Provost Davidson presenting the 'Boots' to the winner of the Burgh Race, 1930's. © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Image, Provost Walker presenting the 'Boots' to the winner of the Burgh Race, c1935. Killiecrankie is seen on the left. © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
By 1765, the Mercat Cross, a symbol of the Burghs status, a well known landmark round which for generations the life of the people had revolved, had fallen in to a state of decay. Its perpendicular pillar was in danger of falling and its situation now “greatly straiten and incommode the street”. The decision was taken to remove it and instead to erect a small platform raised two or three steps high, built to the North side of the steeple, (at Rosebery Hall) hastily decided and with disregard to its historical significance. A skilled craftsman could easily have dismantled the cross, supplied a new shaft and raised it on a suitable site. The platform was a poor substitute for an ancient Celtic Cross.
Image below, Inverkeithing Mercat Cross
Image: By Thomas Nugent, used under Creative Commons License. Inverkeithing Mercat Cross. Believed to be erected around 1388, Unicorn added at top around 1688 and is said to be the work of John Boyd, a Mason from South Queensferry.
During the summer of 1839 the Town Council decided that the Ferry Fair should be held on Friday 9th August and that the members of council should Walk the Marches. They gathered at the Bellstane and after roll call proceeded to Walk the Marches headed by a musical band from Linlithgow (for a fee of £1.00 sterling).
After the first World War ended, the town council decreed that the celebrations for the Treaty of Peace at Versailles should be held on the Ferry Fair day, 8th August 1919. They generously granted £7.10s towards expenses for the day. A Union Jack three yards long and two small flags for each end were purchased for the decoration of the street.
After the first World War ended, the town council decreed that the celebrations for the Treaty of Peace at Versailles should be held on the Ferry Fair day, 8th August 1919. They generously granted £7.10s towards expenses for the day. A Union Jack three yards long and two small flags for each end were purchased for the decoration of the street.
Image, Treaty of Versailles, Cover of English copy. Wikipedia Public Domain
The Ferry Fair we see today is different from the Fair of bygone days.
The Queens Procession met at the Hawes Pier and marched along to Rosebery Hall, led by the Town Crier followed by a Military Band. Children in Fancy Dress also took part in the procession and were presented to the Fair Queen.
The Queens Procession met at the Hawes Pier and marched along to Rosebery Hall, led by the Town Crier followed by a Military Band. Children in Fancy Dress also took part in the procession and were presented to the Fair Queen.
The Boundary Race was started at the Bellstane, then through Hopetoun Crossroads, Loch Road, Station Road, Hawes Brae and back to Bellstane. At some time and certainly in 1937 it was changed to start from the Bellstane, along to Sealscraig Hotel and back to the Bellstane. Some time later it changed back to the original route which it follows today.
After the crowning ceremony, which was held on a platform raised at Rosebery Hall, the Burgh Races took part, prizes awarded, later the Queen laid a wreath (usually her bouquet) at the War Memorial to commemorate those that died during the wars. She still lays a wreath to this day.
Image: Ferry Queen laying a wreath at Queensferry War Memorial c1950's. © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Ferry Fair Queen laying wreath at War Memorial, 2017. Image © Hannah Beaton
Refreshments were served in Burgess Park, after which the Ferry Fair Games were held. Among the many varied activities, there were dancing competitions (eg: Highland Fling, Sword Dance, Irish Jig), various races including in 1937 (Gazette) a Treacle Scone race which was the most enjoyable and competitions such as the 'Greasy Pole', 'Piano Smashing' etc. There was also a competition for the best kept garden of council tenants. In 1937 the gazette reported that quite a lot of tenants "had not cut their grass". (Forerunner of the ‘Decorated Arches’ competition perhaps)? There was also a Best Dressed Horse competition, which drew people from near and far and was well attended.
Greasy Pole Piano Smashing
After the Fair, and certainly by 1948, there was an evening Thanksgiving Service in the Parish Church, and an evening Dance in Rosebery Hall the evening before. The Travelling Shows were stretched along the Hawes Promenade.
In 1937, a reel of photos taken during the Fair was shown at the Cinema.
First Aid was provided by the Red Cross Society, who also ran a tea room at the adjoining Queensferry Public School.
By 1930 it was decided to incorporate a children’s festival into the fair. A Queen was chosen by her peers in the oldest class at Queensferry Junior Secondary school. The first Queen, in 1930, was Emily McBain and the fair was held in August of that year. This format was carried through until 1939 but was discontinued during the years of the Second World War.
First Aid was provided by the Red Cross Society, who also ran a tea room at the adjoining Queensferry Public School.
By 1930 it was decided to incorporate a children’s festival into the fair. A Queen was chosen by her peers in the oldest class at Queensferry Junior Secondary school. The first Queen, in 1930, was Emily McBain and the fair was held in August of that year. This format was carried through until 1939 but was discontinued during the years of the Second World War.
Images below show the crown used by the Ferry Fair Queen before the choice of Queen was changed to younger girls. This crown is now held by Edinburgh Museums.
There was no Ferry Fair in 1940, only the Burry Man (more on him further on) walking the streets. In 1941 there was no Burry Man either, the war having brought the celebrations to a halt.
Image by The Evening Dispatch, Edinburgh, c1950's Crowning of the Queen outside Rosebery Hall. The Regal Cinema is the white building behind the platform. © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Ferry Fair 1947
There was no Ferry Fair after 1939 until 1947, due to World War2.
Traditionally the Sports events were held in Burgess Park. It was reported in 1947 that as Burgess Park was in such a bad condition, the Sports events would be held in Station Road Park, (near where the High School is now) until it could be repaired. By 1949 they were back to Burgess Park.
There was no Ferry Fair after 1939 until 1947, due to World War2.
Traditionally the Sports events were held in Burgess Park. It was reported in 1947 that as Burgess Park was in such a bad condition, the Sports events would be held in Station Road Park, (near where the High School is now) until it could be repaired. By 1949 they were back to Burgess Park.
Image, 1948 Ferry Fair Programme cover, (we don't have a 1947 one!) Queensferry History Group
The Courier on 1st August 1947 reports “There was much excitement in the air as it was 8 years since the last Ferry Fair. Many of the children now at school will never have seen one before. Older folk are seeing in this year’s Fair a real sign of the return of peace and are determined to make it worthy of the occasion.” A cash prize was given this year rather than the traditional boots.
In 1947, 70 years ago, the Fair was started again with Leonora Berry as the chosen Queen. The ex-Queen was Patricia McMahon, then aged 21. Although she was a grown woman by this time, she was honoured to take part in the ceremony with the schoolchildren.
In 1947, 70 years ago, the Fair was started again with Leonora Berry as the chosen Queen. The ex-Queen was Patricia McMahon, then aged 21. Although she was a grown woman by this time, she was honoured to take part in the ceremony with the schoolchildren.
Image, 1947 Queen Leonora, from 2016 Ferry Fair Programme. Queensferry History Group
Before the war, Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Andrew Murray (1947-1951), had said it would be a good thing for Queensferry to have a proper “throne” for the Queen to sit on and he would give one to the Burgh. This could not be done until after the war so in 1948 he attended the Fair to donate the oak 'throne', received by QueensferryProvost Lawson. It is known as the 'Murray Chair' and is still used to this day. The Crowning Ceremony that year was performed, as 'Gracious Lady', by the Lady Provost, Miss Rodney Murray, sister of Lord Provost Murray.
The 'Murray Chair'
According to the 1948 programme (we do not have a 1947 programme) events were to be held over three days. The Boundary Race was to be held on Thursday 12th August. On Friday 13th August, The Procession from the Hawes Pier and Crowning of the Queen at Rosebery Hall, with Girls Races, Boys Races, Three Legged Races, Sack Races, Wheelbarrow Races, Ladies Egg and Spoon Race, Ladies Race, Old Women’s Race, Old Men’s Race and Band Race was to be held in Station Road Park. The Ferry Fair Dance was held in the evening in Rosebery Hall with a 2/- (shilling) admittance. On Saturday 14th August, in Station Road Park with admission costs of 1/6; children free, seats costing 6d, various events were held including races, with competitors from various Clubs and Schools, High Jump, Broad Jump, Hurdles,Tug of War, Pole Vault, Javelin, Pillow Fight, Treacle Scone contest, Various Dance competitions and Best Decorated Horse.
Sadly however, the Courier reported that persistent rain on Thursday curtailed the Boundary Race and the Bury Man got so soaked through that he had a break in the afternoon and the evening’s perambulations to outlying areas had to be cancelled. The weather was fine on Friday for the parade and crowning ceremony however the ground was so sodden that it was decided to cancel the children’s sports. They had refreshments in Rosebery Hall and a film show in the Regal Cinema instead.
Sadly however, the Courier reported that persistent rain on Thursday curtailed the Boundary Race and the Bury Man got so soaked through that he had a break in the afternoon and the evening’s perambulations to outlying areas had to be cancelled. The weather was fine on Friday for the parade and crowning ceremony however the ground was so sodden that it was decided to cancel the children’s sports. They had refreshments in Rosebery Hall and a film show in the Regal Cinema instead.
In the programme some advertisers included The Kiosk at the Hawes Pier, John Watson Chemist, Hillwood Co-operative Society and the Regal Cinema.
In the 1960’s it was decided to choose the queen from the primary schools as difficulties had arisen in persuading the ex-queens, then aged 15+ and working, to take part in a children’s festival.
Image: Crowning of the Queen 1952 © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Crowning of the Queen 2010 © Queensferry History Group
Crowning Ceremony 2016 - Ferry Fair Facebook Page
,Since these days flower girls and page boys have been added to the Queen’s retinue. Floats carrying fancy dressed members of local organisations have been another welcome addition and the symbolic replica ship bearing Queen (later to become a Saint), Margaret with her brother Edgar (from whom came the name Echline, of Echline area in Queensferry) and Princesses Agatha and Christina makes a historical addition to the parade.
Image: Queen Margaret's Boat © Quensferry History Group (QHG)
The colourful character leading the parade then was the local Town Crier, John “The Rogue” Robertson. The present Town Crier is Lindsay Munro.
Image, John "The Rogue" Robertson © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Previously the position was held for many years by Willie Lamond who was better known to all as “Killiecrankie”. He was in fact retained by the local Town Council as Town Crier and “cried” public meetings, public disasters and anything else that had to be brought to the notice of local people in the days when only the police and doctors had a telephone. By 1949 he had served as Town Crier for 42 years.
Image, Willia Lamond "Killiecrankie" Town Crier- © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Burry Man
We can’t talk about the Ferry Fair without mentioning the ‘Burry Man’!
We can’t talk about the Ferry Fair without mentioning the ‘Burry Man’!
Image, the Burry Man c1895 © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
Although not traditionally connected to the Fair, the day preceding the Ferry Fair Queen crowning ceremony, the Burry Man makes his annual parade in the town according to local custom, drawing the pupils of the local school after him. Completely clad in flannels, his body, arms and legs and even his face being concealed by a covering of burrs, fruits of the burdock that grew profusely in the neighbourhood, on his head a hat bedecked with flowers. As he walks, his arms extended laterally, hands each grasping a stout shaft displaying a profusion of blooms at the top. In the 1800’s he was led from door to door up the wynds and closes by his two attendants who supported the heavy weight of his arms. They walked him around the town knocking on doors and receiving money donations which brought good luck to the givers. Children cried out “Hip Hip Hooray, it’s the Burry Man Day” to draw attention. In days gone by, after the tour of the Burgh, he went further afield visiting outlying areas, being wheeled in a wheelbarrow (which can’t have been comfortable!).
Image © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
The task of preparing the Burry Man for the ceremony is performed by the attendants who gathered the burrs and arranged them on a board, the burrs clinging together in such a manner they formed a mat which could be applied to the flannel garments. A loose leg of woollen stocking was drawn over the man’s head and face, slits having been cut for the eyes, nose and mouth, the face then concealed by a mask of burrs. It has to be a stout man who will have the stamina to endure the trials of the day, with no means of going to the toilet and only being fed liquids (some alcoholic) through a straw.
Image © Queensferry History Group (QHG)
The origins of the Burry Man is obscure, but may go back over 300 years. Sir Walter Scott who tried to solve the mystery of the ceremony was baffled by it and archaeologists throughout the years, although they offered theories, have failed to find the origin and meanings of the custom. There are many theories, ranging from it having been instituted during the reign of King Malcolm III ‘Canmore’ (which translates as ‘Big Head’ which reputedly, he physically had) and Queen Margaret about the year 1032, through to a representative in human form of a tree or plant spirit formerly worshipped all over Europe, believed to bring a good harvest. Another, brought by Dr Mason, a local historian and founder of Queensferry Museum, who wrote ‘The History of Queensferry’ in 1963, was mentioned in the Gazette in 1948, having said that the Folklore Society have instances of similar ceremonies taking place in fishing villages which suggests that it most likely derives from a pagan ceremony in favour of the fishings. (Queensferry was once a fishing village). Yet another theory is that it was brought to Queensferry by visiting sailors from similar ceremonies abroad.
Image © Queensferry History Group (QHG) Inchgarvie Island. 'Garvie' was a local name for the fish found in the area.
An old lady in Queensferry who was still alive in 1851, at 80 years of age, is said to have declared that her mother remembered when she was aged 13 in 1746 and the Burry Man used to go around the town at that time.
Many people work hard behind the scenes to bring us both the Burry Man and the Ferry Fair. We are sure with the help and support of the community it will continue for many more years to come.
Information extracted from ‘The History of Queensferry’-Dr Mason 1963, Linlithgowshire Gazette extracts 1835–1947, Dunfermline Abbey Presbytery Website, ‘Fortha’s Lyrics and Other Poems’- Thomas Orrocks, 1880.
Many people work hard behind the scenes to bring us both the Burry Man and the Ferry Fair. We are sure with the help and support of the community it will continue for many more years to come.
Information extracted from ‘The History of Queensferry’-Dr Mason 1963, Linlithgowshire Gazette extracts 1835–1947, Dunfermline Abbey Presbytery Website, ‘Fortha’s Lyrics and Other Poems’- Thomas Orrocks, 1880.
© Queensferry History Group 2017
