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  Queensferry at War

 A History of Brewery Close followed by Plewlands House .

2/9/2015

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Brewery Close.
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There is very little recorded about Brewery close. Some reference is made in Dr Mason's* book, written in 1963 about the History of South Queensferry.
 What is evident are the surcharges and fines imposed on Brewers, although they were not alone in this. Money was constantly needed by the Council to run and maintain the Town.
At one time there were as many as 7 narrow closes leading south from the High Street each densely occupied. Today (1963, the time of Dr Mason writing his book)) only 3 survive. Hamilton's Close, an unnamed close and Brewery Close, leading from West Terrace to what once was the site of a former brewery, and now is a Courtyard Development, built in recent years. 

Hamilton's Close
Un-named Close
Hover Cursor over images to read titles.
 In Brewery close there was also a dairy, one of several where cows were milked to supply the burgh. In Queensferry History Groups' book, 'Doon the Ferry', local characters remember "Tam Hardies byres up Brewery Close, with turnips galore for Halloween. He also had the dairy there. Milk was delivered by horse and cart. Scones were sold from the front place. The cows used to go up and along Station Road to the field there daily. In the summer you could go there and collect daisies for daisy chains".
In 1513 There is mention in Dr Mason's book of a Robert Jameson who carried on board the ship 'Margaret', in 1513, a barrel of ale at the cost of £14.10s.4d, and James, the 'Baxter' supplied the crew with a pype (cask) and a puncheon of ale which was brewed by his wife. It appears common for wives to be the ale brewers as this is mentioned several times through the earlier centuries. However there is no mention of where this brewing was done. 

By the year 1633, the foundations of the Kirk behind Black Castle, were laid, at a time when trade was flourishing and local ships were regularly trading in the Baltic, and the merchants and skippers  were well  able to build a church and support it's minister with a stipend of 400 merks.
However this came with its drawbacks. An act of Parliament decreed the people must solemnly at all times frequent the church, to hear the word of God, receive the Sacraments, enjoy the benefits of Burial and subject themselves to the discipline of the Minister. This was to affect the religious and social life of the people in many unusual ways.
 Rules for keeping the Sabbath day were strict and exacting. Many 'offences ' had a fixed fine.
One such rule affected the brewers. It was deemed an offence for brewers of Ale to sell their wares in times of worship, a fine of 40s was imposed.
Fines collected were contributed to the 'Church Box', which was distributed to the Poor, Widows and Orphans and those in dire distress.


Between 1635-1638 during years of change and development in the burgh, the Magistrates held court and imposed many fines. Again, this meant fines against Brewers who of Ale who served beggars stopping on their way to cross the ferry, until they became 'beastly drunk'.

In 1635 the Magistrates fined Margaret Moubray, Janet Lowrie and Helen Young 40 shillings each, as they each brewed Ale on the Sabbath Day. It is interesting that in 1643, Margaret and Janet were burned at the stake for Witchcraft! Helen was arrested but not burned as deemed to be 'old'.

We jump to 1703, and the council petitioned Parliament for a 'gift of customs' charged on goods passing through the town. This included a gift of 2 pennies on the pint, of Ale brewed and bonded within the town. From the proceeds of this tax they hoped to meet some of the Town's baddebts.

At this time the inhabitants of the Burgh were greatly inconvenienced by the quartering of soldiers in their houses. In an attempt to ease the situation, the council petitioned for a decree that the troop of Dragoons be moved and only billeted with families of 'Those who brew and sell Ale'. If the number of soldiers requiring billeting exceeded 30, then the billet master was given the power to billet them with families in private houses
. (minute of meeting 1703)

Complaint was made about the weakness and quality of the Ale brewed in the Town although malt was at an easy and reasonable rate. The Council therefore ordained that each Brewer should produce good and sufficient wholesome Ale worth the price of 2 shillings a pint, under penalty of 30 Shillings each brewing. Officers were appointed to go through the town each week to keep check.  

Thomas Miller the Brewer is mentioned in 1785 as one of the 'prosperous merchants' who contributed to the raising of funds for 10 oil lamps and the upkeep, to light the High Street. Oil cost 1 shilling a pint.

In 1833, in response to an act of Parliament, to amend the laws for election of the Magistrates and Councils of the Royal Burghs of Scotland, John Dudgeon, the Farmer of Almondhill who owned the Brewery, Maltbarn, Kiln and Stable on the South side of the High Street, most likely Brewery Close, and James Moir Todd, Brewer and Tenant of the same Brewery, Maltbarn and Kiln on the South Side of the High Street,  are mentioned in the list of 37 named owners or occupiers of premises in the town who made up the list of electors, empowered to elect the members of the Town Council. This included the election of the Lord Provost. This appears to be the last recorded brewer on that side of town.
Competition must have been fierce, indeed Ale was brought
 in from outside and there are records in 1830, of a Mr Cooper, a Brewer in Edinburgh bringing Ale in to Queensferry to sell. he would not have been the only one.

In 1889, George Sandercombe, in West Terrace, advertised in the 'Observer', Bass and Alsops Ales and Guiness's Dublin Stouts, well matured and bottled on his own premises at 2s 6d for a dozen pints.

(* Dr  John Mason was a Historian and Headmaster of Queensferry School.  He is credited with establishing Queensferry  Museum in 1951. His book is not in print, never having been published. His information has been taken from burgh manuscripts.)

Records show the building was lying in a derelict state after 1957 and indeed images show it was such in 1904. The building was where the East-most new flats are now, erected around 2005.
 There is a photo of the Brewery dated 1890 in Queensferry Museum.
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Census lists started in 1841 and the only Brewer mentioned in 1841 and 1851 is in Gote Lane, on the North side of the High Street.  There is no Brewery listed on the South Side, and Brewery Close is not mentioned, only listed as South Side or North Side. The Gote Lane Brewery has ceased to be listed by 1861. An Andrew Mitchell, aged 30, born in Alloa, a Brewer, is listed in Gote Lane in 1841, and 1851.

1881 has the first mention of Brewery Close, but there are no Brewers there. Living there, in houses No's 1-5, are a Shale Miner, Dressmaker, Outdoor worker, Fisherman, Mason, Teacher Assistant, a Maltman, and their families.

In 1891, there are, a General Labourer, Farm Servant, Outdoor Worker, Shale Miner, Field Worker, a Warehouseman, and their families.

1901 is listed a Fisherman, Charwoman, Field Worker, Bridge Painter, a Dairyman (James Hardie) and their famiies.

1911 Valuation Form, lists, in West Terrace, House, Byre and Stable, Milkhouse and Cellar belonging to Jane Hardie, Dairy keeper, Brewery Close. There is also part of Maltbarns belonging to James Davidson, Butcher.

1921/22 Valuation Roll, lists in Brewery Close,  a House, Byre, Milkhouse and Cellar belonging to Thomas and James Hardie- Dairykeepers. Slaughterhouse- John Davidson Butcher, Stable, Store, Tenant James Davidson a Butcher, A Stable lying empty, 3 houses, nos 1-5 owned by William Russell, a farmer living in south Africa, and let out to various families.

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1950/51 Valuation Roll lists 2 Brewery Close, a House and Milkhouses etc, owned by Thomas Stirling, a Dairyman (giving his name to Stirling's Dairy, in the image above). A Garage, Stables, Store and Loft at No 3, owned by Queensferry Town Council. House at 1A, owned by Mrs Charlotte Wood, uninhabited, condemned.  She also owns flats in No.1 Brewery Close with various tenants.

1970/71 Valuation, in Brewery Close, lists only, No2- House and Garage, owned by Mrs Bridget Inglis, Tenant John Henderson,  No 1, Garage owned by William Carson ,  Garage,  Tenant- Queensferry Garage, and an Office rented by HM Customs & Excise.

If we look at former information, where in 1833, John Dudgeon, the Farmer of Almondhill, owned the Brewery, Maltbarn, Kiln and Stable on the South side of the High Street and James Moir Todd, Brewer and Tenant of the Brewery, Maltbarn and Kiln on the South Side of the High Street. It looks more than likely this was a Brewery in Brewery Close. Given that in the 1911 Census the first hint may be that part of the Maltbarns, listed as in Brewery Close, belonged to James Davidson, Butcher.

Also given that there is no mention of any  Brewer, Brewery, or Maltbarns in the scant earlier census records, it would appear that there has been no Brewer at Brewery Close from 1841. What happened to the Brewery between 1833 and 1841, 8 years, is the puzzle as to the last Brewer in Brewery Close. Remember the Brewery building was lying derelict by 1904!

It seems safe to assume the last Brewer was James Moir Todd, the Tenant of the Brewery. It is also safe to assume Victorian Brewery Close was not a pleasant place to be, with a Brewery,  sour milk from the Dairies, stables for the delivery horses, outside toilets, and middens!
© Queensferry History Group 2015
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Plewlands House
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Samuel  Wilson,  was a councilor of standing in Queensferry, who like his father, imported timber from the Baltic and choice wines from Bordeaux and elsewhere. 
He had been elected a Councilor and Burgess in 1635.
 In 1641 he decided he wanted a house fitting to his station in life.  

The Stone building, standing at the West End of Queensferry, called Plewlands House, was erected.  It stands 3 stories high, and has inner spiral staircase, placed centrally in the Eastern wall. The masonry is harled rubble. The Roof is timber with slate.
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Upon the stone lintel over the low doorway are the initials of his wife Anna Ponton, as well as his own. SW-AP were carved in relief with the year of the building, 1641. Above are the Words in Latin - SPES MEA CHRISTUS,  'Christ is my Hope', and an anchor which indicates the occupation of the owner of the house.

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Samuel Wilson tried to buy the land at Bellstane but this was refused. He built his house in Plewlands, on wasteground at the bottom of The Loan, on the left hand side, over a burn that flowed down to the Sea. It was just outside the Burgh Boundary.  He wanted to build his house within the burgh boundary but there was no suitable land available. 
In the 18th Century , The Hopes of Hopetoun owned Plewlands House. In the 19th century it passed to the Hamilton/Dundas family but by that time it had been subdivided, with a Mrs Tuck running Plewlands Laundry from her home.

In 1952 the house had fallen into a semi derelict state and in 1953 it was gifted to the National Trust of Scotland. It was restored in 1955, as a pleasing example of 17th Century Scottish Domestic  Architecture.  Funded by £4,000 donated by the Pilgrim's Trust, the house was converted into 7 flats. The first residents moved in October 1955. It was sold back into private ownership in recent years.


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Photos by Norma Brown 
© Queensferry History Group 2015

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